Weingut Emmerich Knoll 'Vinothekfullung' Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The 2005 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung originates largely in one particularly ripe parcel of Loibenberg. There is some botrytis in play, and for the first time we cross the 14% alcohol threshold, despite the wine having eight grams of residual sugar. Scents of caramelized peach, brown spices, and ester-filled pear distillate lead to a glossy, rich, honeyed palate impression with spice and pungency clearly attributable to botrytis. Enveloping, creamy richness and sheer extract hold in check or cover over any tendency to botrytis induced bitterness or alcoholic heat that this wine might otherwise display. But it is to botrytis as well that I would ascribe a slight cutting off of the finish. This is opulent as far as it goes, but not complete. Could it simply be in a funk? Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700