Weingut Emmerich Knoll 'Vinothekfullung' Riesling Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Consisting largely of fruit harvested in mid-November from Loibenberg, the Knoll 2010 Riesling Smaragd Vinothekfullung loaded with succulently ripe fig and white peach; glazed with quince preserves; mingled with smoky dark tobacco; and suffused with invigoratingly peppery mineral impingement and saliva-drawing salinity. This is an example of leaving behind close to the limit (for Smaragd) in residual sugar and thereby enhancing the lusciously ripe aspects of a 2010 without engendering any conflict with the wine’s quickening acidity. The expansive, persistent finish practically glows, with pepper, tobacco, brown spices, and black tea adding depth and counterpoint to its rich fruit. I’d plan on following it for a dozen, or perhaps more years.“Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200