Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Roure, Crozes-Hermitage, France

嘉伯樂酒莊羅爾園紅葡萄酒

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From a property in Gervans, the 2020 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure features classic granite aromatics of crushed stone and cassis, plus hallmark mineral-like austerity and reserve. It's medium to full-bodied, yet not overly tannic or concentrated. Readers should note there was no 2019 bottled, but the 2018 is an excellent wine.

Grown on granitic soils near Gervans, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure boasts aromas of crushed stone and tapenade, laced with cassis, blueberries and espresso. Full-bodied but restrained, it shows the structural influence of the granite, with plentiful fine-grained tannins that seem deceptively silky, yet yield a finish that's dry, cool and refreshing.

Bearing more than a passing resemblance to an actual Hermitage, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure comes from granitic soils, and it comes across as darker, more concentrated and sturdier than Jaboulet's other Crozes bottlings. Cassis and black olive notes abound in this full-bodied, structured wine, which finishes long and velvety, picking up hints of baking spices along the way.

A mini Hermitage from granite slopes in the commune of Gervans, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure is outstanding. Deep plum and black olive notes mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is supple, velvety and rich. This beauty shows wonderful harmony and savoriness, turning silky on the long finish.

Brooding, concentrated and tannic, the 2015 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure will need some time to come out of its granite shell. Crushed stone and dark cherries and cassis emerge only reticently on the nose. For easier near-term drinking, grab some of the Thalabert; for serious longevity in the cellar, the Domaine de Roure will be hard to beat.