From a warm spot along the Pommard line, Rossignol’s 2005 Volnay Fremiets smells of ripe blackberries, sweat and game. Chunky, full (at 14% alcohol) and broad-shouldered on the palate, firmly, prominently tannic, and with persistent meaty character, it is almost the very model of Pommard rather than Volnay! The striking, palate-staining finish is of beef juices, sweat, tart blackberry and iodine.
Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.