Domaine Jean Fournier Gevrey-Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, France

簡·富尼爾酒莊熱夫雷-香貝丹干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：2895

The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin suffered acute mildew pressure this vintage, rather than frost. It has a pleasant, quite vivacious bouquet with raspberry coulis, crushed strawberries and subtle graphite aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a lush, rounded, iodine-tinged opening, red fruit dovetailing into blue towards the approachable, very pure finish. Very fine but again, this will be too tempting in its youth.

The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin, a blend of Clos Prieur and Creux Brouillard courtesy of vines planted in the 1980s, has a well-defined bouquet with plenty of energy: ripe red cherries, a touch of blueberry and crushed violets. There is a palpable generosity here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit on the entry, a saline undertow marrying well with the black fruit, the finish focused and displaying coiled up energy. This is very fine for a village cru.

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Villages comes from Clos Prieur and Creux Brouillard, near les Crais - limestone and sand on stone soils respectively. It has a very detailed, quite complex bouquet that attests to the benefits from blending these two terroirs together: cranberry and wild strawberry, cold stone and touches of flint under the carapace of red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, fine tannin. I appreciate the backbone here, but there is nothing oppressive and I can envisage this drinking well after just 12 months in bottle and then giving a lot of pleasure.

The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin comes from Clos Prieur and Clos Brouillard lieux-dits. It has a crisp mulberry and red plum-scented bouquet with a touch of warm gravel coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced, the 40% to 45% whole-bunch fruit imparting freshness and delineation, especially on the classic, vibrant finish that bears semblances to Morey-Saint-Denis.

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a slightly skinny blackberry bouquet that feels a little stemmy at this point (perhaps this is exaggerated next to Fournier’s more fruit-driven Marsannays). The palate has a light entry with broody dark fruit and it never really gets going toward the finish that needs more matiere. I was tipped off about the quality of Laurent Fournier’s work at Domaine Jean Fournier a few months ago, and made a beeline for their stand at the Grand Jours de Bourgogne. Laurent is one of the appellation’s exciting young winemakers destined to put Marsannay on the map. A bit like Sylvain Pataille, his wines brim with pure, ravishing Pinot Noir fruit. They are not shy wines, but come at you with their generous fruite and silky textures. If you are yet to discover the delights of either Marsannay or Laurent’s wines, then I suggest you do your palate a favor. Importer: Vintner Select, Mason, OH; tel. 800-597-1491;www.vintnerselect.com; See also Berry Brothers and Flint Wines in the UK.