Domaine Jean Fournier Gevrey-Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, France

簡·富尼爾酒莊熱夫雷-香貝丹干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：2937

From young vines in the Clos Prieur, Fournier’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin offers a nose of sweet black cherries, with hints of game and smoked meat. Like a number of Fournier’s 2005s, it is surprisingly light-weight, but mouth-filling, pure, refined, and satisfying in its clear, fresh cherry fruit. The flattering texture is quite silken, and the finish quite long and subtle in its exchange of sweet fruit, cherry pit bitterness and smoked meat. Allowances ought perhaps to be made for this wine having just been sulfured and assembled. It was vinified in a mixture of new and used demi-muids. From the dense Marne chalk-clay soils of this commune, Young Laurent Fournier has been quietly elevating the quality of his family’s wines and joining the ranks of young growers (notably Philippe Collotte, Sylvain Pataille, and Philippe Roty) who – along with veteran Bruno Clair – are re-defining the potential of Marsannay and in the process offering some excellent Pinot values. As an illustration of the handicap under which the image and practice of vinifying Marsannay still labors, as well as of our changing climatic times, the I.N.A.O. gave Fournier trouble because his simple village Marsannay weighed in at a legally unrecognizably high level above 13.5% natural alcohol! In any event, says Fournier, he succeeded in sloughing off alcohol this year just by having done so many of his fermentations with whole clusters (which release their sugar over time). Malos only finally finished for Fournier in December, but most of the wines were assembled and about to be bottled when I visited him at the end of February. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne La Chapitre (Chenove) ($15.00;85), 2005 Marsannay Cuvee St.-Urbain ($22.00;85-86). A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29. Also a Cellar Door Selection, Columbia, MD; tel. (410) 309-6063