From a parcel of vines in the lieu-dit Le Charlemagne, the 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is the most reserved wine in the Buissons' cellar, unfurling in the glass to reveal notes of ripe citrus oil, fresh pastry, dried flowers and smoke. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and muscular, with good concentration and chewy structuring extract. It will demand some patience, but it's a very fine rendition of the appellation.