Brun's current batch of NV Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Charmes represents the second time he has essayed such a sparkling Chardonnay, and it spent 18 months sur lies. Its crisp, fresh apple and lime laced with salt and chalk, this is effusively fruity yet displays subtlety; clean and long, although its mousse is a tad coarse. Enjoy it over the next 6-9 months. I hesitate to review non-vintage cuvees for which there are no lot designations on the label, but drinking this wine was too much fun to keep quiet about. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191