Domaine des Terres Dorees Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin-a-Vent, France

特雷斯酒莊讓-保羅·布朗干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：6025

The Terre Dorees 2010 Moulin-a-Vent – half of which spent time in older barriques – features sour cherry, red raspberry, and rose hip along with a nip of horseradish. Lean and bright where I would have expected a bit more richness and sheer sweetness of fruit, it nonetheless finishes with saliva-inducing salinity and invigoration of berry skin, an appellation-typical suggestion of beef marrow emerging understatedly with aeration. A fine-grained suffusion of tannin may yet prove useful as one follows this for the next several years. Given that I tasted this only three weeks after bottling, it’s important to give it the benefit of some doubt; and I regret that I could not revisit it before going to press.Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

Elderberry, blueberry, and marrow rich beef stock dominate Brun's 2009 Moulin-a-Vent (from two parcels, one toward Chenas, and one toward Fleurie), which I caught up with in June soon after its bottling. Brown spice, fruit seeds, rose hip, and chalky, somehow ore-like, stony impingements make for a vivid sort of complexity, informing a finish of vibrant, interactive intensity. Noticeable dissolved CO2 - while it needs to (and almost certainly will) settle down a bit - also adds to the tactile intensity and sense of vivacity exhibited here, a legacy Brun considers conducive to longevity and important due to his low dosage of sulfur. This dynamic, palate staining cru offers exceptional value and the promise of at least 6-8 years of fascinating evolution. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191

The Brun 2008 Moulin-a-Vent (from two parcels, one toward Chenas, and one toward Fleurie) is vividly redolent of ripe purple plums tinged with the bitterness of their pits and with salt. Wet stone and beef marrow undertones typical of the appellation lead to a strikingly long and invigorating finish informed by fruit skins, pits, mineral salts, and marrow. This handsomely lean cru should be worth following for 4-5 years. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191