Domaine des Terres Dorees Jean-Paul Brun, Moulin-a-Vent, France

特雷斯酒莊讓-保羅·布朗干紅葡萄酒

點擊次數：6042

The Brun 2008 Moulin-a-Vent (from two parcels, one toward Chenas, and one toward Fleurie) is vividly redolent of ripe purple plums tinged with the bitterness of their pits and with salt. Wet stone and beef marrow undertones typical of the appellation lead to a strikingly long and invigorating finish informed by fruit skins, pits, mineral salts, and marrow. This handsomely lean cru should be worth following for 4-5 years. Jean-Paul Brun – like Pierre Chermette – made his reputation in Beaujolais the hard way (as if making a reputation anywhere in this region is easy!) by taking a vocal position on quality and crafting exemplary wines with the lowest regional classification, plain “Beaujolais,” from chalk-clay soils in the south. Only then was he able to acquire fruit and eventually properties in the northern, granite-based crus, a collection which now forms a quartet (whose performance in vintage 2007 I missed and Brun did not volunteer to re-stage this spring). Chalk clay soils in the south of Beaujolais distinguish not only the eponymous appellation but also explain the prevalence of Chardonnay – most bottled as Bourgogne Blanc rather than Beaujolais Blanc, and of which Brun’s is not only the best, but one I rate among the world’s handful of consistently finest Chardonnay values.Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191