Daniel Barraud Macon Vergisson la Roche Reserve

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The Macon-Vergisson La Roche was aged in one-third new oak and two-thirds three year old oak barrels. It reveals crisp mineral and stone aromas and has a beautifully concentrated, medium-bodied, and racy character packed with fresh and lively citrus fruits. This excellent wine will be at its peak between now and 2002. Daniel Barraud, a hard-working, intelligent and dedicated man, is one of the Maconnais' finest producers. He believes that his 1996s are "more powerful, both in acidity and ripeness" than his '95s and are "magnificently precise and clean." I was blown away by Barraud's '95s (reviewed in issue #110), finding both his En Buland (91) and La Verchere (90+) to be outstanding, but his 1996s are even better. Moreover, these wines are excellent values.Barraud is not a believer in batonnage; his wines obtain their richness from late harvests and extended lees contact in barrel (as opposed to the traditional Maconnais vats). He neither fines nor filters his offerings.Importer: "Reserve" wines are imported exclusively by North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910; the other wines are Peter Vezan Selections (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various importers including Skurnik in NY.

With a nose reminiscent of Puligny-Montrachet because of its roasted fruits, the Macon-Vergisson La Roche Reserve is an excellent example of the heights this unheralded region can attain. It exhibits a toasty, buttery mouth filled with minerals, stones, and candied fruits. This medium-to-full-bodied wine finishes with an attractive lemony tang and should be drunk young. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29.As readers study my report, I hope they notice the number of wines from highly acclaimed villages and vineyards that don't merit the scores the three delicious wines from this domaine received. After harvesting extremely ripe grapes, Daniel Barraud neither fines nor filters his wines and leaves them on their lees for 15 months. They are full-flavored blockbusters and will be considered steals when their prices are compared to those of other white burgundies.Importer: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.

Longtime readers of these pages have known of my affection for the wines of Daniel Barraud in France's Maconnais region. His unfiltered 1994 Macon-Vergisson La Roche Reserve exhibits great fruit and power, a liquid stone-like character, and gobs of lemony, buttery flavors on the palate. Full-bodied, rich, and elegant, this wine offers more persuasive evidence that some of the world's finest white wines are emerging from Burgundy's Maconnais region. Drink it over the next 2-3 years.North Berkeley Wines, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910 and (800) 266-6585; fax (510) 848-0841