Made with a bend of fruit from Arborina (in La Morra), Cannubi (in Barolo) and Badarina and Ceretta (in Serralunga d'Alba), Silvia Altare calls her 2019 Barolo Unoperuno a "super mega blend of classic single-vineyard sites." The berries are hand selected in the most excruciating manner to avoid all stems, leaves, ugly berries, bugs and so forth. Indeed, "unoperuno" means "one by one" in Italian, and that gives you an idea of the exacting work required to make this very limited-production wine (with about 1,200 bottles released annually in the fall). "Everyone is moving toward stem inclusion," Silvia tells me: "We are moving in the opposite direction." These results are softly elegant with ripe tannins and lots of dark fruit and black cherry at the back. There are mild mineral tones and a hint of earth or rust.
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