From bottle, the 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is one of the most reserved wines in the portfolio, opening in the glass with a brooding bouquet of plums, cassis, rich soil and wood smoke, framed by a judicious application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated but very taut and undemonstrative. The raw materials are formidable, but this will require more than a decade of bottle age to blossom: when it does, my score will likely look conservative.
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