Representing what is always his most structured wine, Raquillet's 2006 Mercurey Les Naugues is marked by aromas and flavors of cherry, pomegranate, and salted beef juices. It offers a real mouthful of Pinot for its vintage, with the tannins firm but fine, and notes of charred wood, cherry stones and just plain stones adding finishing interest without rendering it too austere. This is well concentrated and gripping, not just for its vintage. I would plan to hold it through 2010 and to then enjoy it over the following several years. The 40% new wood routinely used on the wine of this site, incidentally, represents the highest Raquillet employs, but does not at all get in the way.
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