The Meo-Camuzet 2006 Echezeaux – from a parcel in the Rouges du Bas sector, harvested fairly early in an effort, relates Meo, to preserve acidity – is dominated by cooked plum; black raspberry preserves; and tart rhubarb, enhanced by chocolate and brown spices. The overall effect is a bit bifurcated in a sweet-sour way, but the wine is certainly impressively rich and generous, more immediately appealing, notes Meo, than is typical for this bottling. High-toned suggestions of distilled fruit and deep intimations of roasted meat add interest; the sense of tartness translates into welcome invigoration in the finish; and the tannins here are fine-grained and sublimated. This should be enjoyable anytime over the next 8-10 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo harvested 2006 fruit between 13.25-14.25% potential alcohol, slightly higher than in 2005. Except for a few instances of vineyards touched by hail, he said, he vinified in essentially the same way (including the same percentages of new barrels) as he had in 2005. Meo notes that the pHs of his 2006s ended up quite high after their malos, and while this contributes to their sense of softness and generosity, I sometimes find these wines wanting for some vivacity or primary juiciness. (I have appended to the description of Meo's negociant bottlings the words "Frere et Soeur" that appear underneath "Meo-Camuzet" on their labels.)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25
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