Domaine Marcel Deiss Mambourg, Alsace Grand Cru, France

苔絲美人酒莊曼堡干白葡萄酒

點擊次數：4661

The Deiss 2006 Mambourg is decidedly carnal and leathery, as well as significantly marked by lanolin and spice from wood, but it offers a core of peachy fruit and a strikingly palpable sense of density. Salt, chalk, leather, and fruit pit bitterness dominate the finish, and what residual sugar is present doesn’t convey much sense of sweetness. This is more formidable than loveable, for sure, and I cannot imagine it being a wine one would want to hold for more than a couple more years. Mambourg always ripens early, but that may if anything have proven a disadvantage in 2006 in terms of the stage the grapes were at when it by the worst of the September rain. Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000