From the high-altitude Grand Cras section of its appellation (though that is not mentioned on the label), Brun's 2009 Morgon is alluringly scented with violet, gentian, roasted game, and a veritable basketful of black raspberries. Managing to seem both substantial and polished yet also refreshing and invigorating, its profusion of mineral salt, meat stock, and - this literally - fine-grained tannin make for fascination and inevitable versatility at table, and an excellent value that should be worth following for a half dozen years. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191
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