The 1998 Vacqueyras* demonstrates what can go wrong with France's appellation system. The local syndicate, which grants label approval after tasting the appellation's wines, decided this wine was "not typical," and refused to give it the right to the Vacqueyras appellation. Thus in France it is called "Cuvee du Grand Reserve Cotes du Rhone." In the United States, it bears the Vacqueyras label. This is an absurd decision, aimed at denying young producers attempting to make great wines the freedom to pursue excellence. The only excuse given to Emmanuel Reynaud by the tasting committee (the most influential taster was a local oenologist) was that the wine was "oxidized." Of course it is not oxidized, but it does not contain any Syrah (most Vacqueyras do), and has more glycerin, flavor, alcohol, and flamboyance than the local authorities deem acceptable for "typical" Vacqueyras.No doubt jealousy and fear have played into this decision, but as any wine lover who tastes this wine will find out, it represents an exceptional expression of old vine, low yielding Grenache. Tasted blind, many will mistake this wine for a Rayas from a vintage such as 1997 or 1996. The color is a deceptively light to medium ruby. The flamboyant bouquet offers a fabulous expression of Grenache harvested at sur-maturite that has not been compromised by aging in new oak. The flavors are all fruit, glycerin, and kirsch liqueur. Made from 100% Grenache, the wine exhibits a layered texture, low acidity, and 14-15% natural alcohol. This is a superb example of Vacqueyras that should drink well for 5-8 years. Frankly, the decision of the local bureaucrats is shameful! P.S. I bought two cases. Importer: Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
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