From two high-elevation parcels between Aloxe and Pernand, the Clair 2006 Corton-Charlemagne is surprisingly fat and rich for its appellation, with ripe pit fruits and nut paste (hazelnut and almond) typical for the vintage at this address. Beautifully scented with apple blossom, vanilla, and lightly toasted nuts, and with a subtle oiliness that compliments its honeyed richness, this hints at lime and blood orange without expressing the bright citricity one might expect from the site, and finishes long on fruit, but with ample suggestions of chalk and wet stone. This drinks well so early that one might be tempted to under-estimate its life span. Still, I would not plan on holding it for more than 6-8 years without careful monitoring.Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun’s small collection of white wines is always deserving of serious attention, and their 2006s are especially generous in personality.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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