The Terre Dorees 2010 Beaujolais L’Ancien Le Buissy – representing as usual a cuvee raised in 5-6 year old barriques from now nearly septuagenarian vines – focuses on sour cherry and red raspberry, joined by fresh fig, and complemented by salt, chalk, white pepper, cardamom, and a subtle hint of wood. Nut oils and a meat broth-like savor well up as this opens to the air, and – along with a high measure of glycerin for a wine harboring under-12.5% alcohol and displaying notable vivacity – convey a surprising richness. Finishing with mouthwatering persistence, this should prove delightful over the next 2-3 years. Jean-Paul Brun and his Terres Dorees – for a bit more background on which, consult especially my report in issue 184 – continue to be the source of some of Beaujolais’s most exciting wines and best values. “I’m very content with my 2010s,” remarks Burn, but I suspect most lovers of Beaujolais will express their enthusiasm with less restraint. (Brun’s Pinot Noir, Chardonnay “Vinification Bourguignon,” and Roussanne were all still in the midst of their elevage when I visited with him and were not tasted.)Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191