This impeccable bottle of Chartron's 1959 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Clos des Chevaliers was showing superbly, unfurling in the glass with a complex bouquet of mandarin, orange peel, dried white flowers, brioche, iodine, woodsmoke and fresh field mushroom. On the palate, it was full-bodied, broad and textural, with an ample, fleshy core of lively but sun-kissed fruit, ripe acids and a long finish. This has likely been at peak for several decades at this stage, but it is in no danger of imminent decline either.
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