Landanger's 2006 Corton Clos Du Roi exhibits the sort of pungent, nippy combination of spice and pepper that this year characterized a couple of his Volnays. The tartness of blackberry is a welcomes source of refreshment as well as invigoration, the latter reinforced by salty and peppery notes. Roasted meatiness, tobacco and herb concentrate, and the bitterness of fruit pits all add depth as well as a darker cast, and tannin is never far from the surface, but this preserves a dynamic interplay of elements in its long tactilely pungent finish that transcends the other wines in its collection. I would wait several years to revisit it and anticipate 10-12 of fascination.
Patrick Landanger reports having fermented longer and worked harder to extract flavor from his 2006 crop, and while the results are undeniably concentrated, on the occasion of my tasting, several suffered a bit from opacity and tannic severity.
Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
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