The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is superb, revealing an incipiently complex bouquet that mingles orange blossom, iodine, shrimp shell reduction and wet stones in a saliva-inducing mélange. Full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional on the palate, it's layered, elegantly textural but incisive, with racy acids for the vintage and a long, saline finish.