The fast-talking, super-enthusiastic Jim Clendenen is fashioning some of the most dazzling wines in California. The upcoming and current releases of Pinot Noir from Au Bon Climat are equally stunning in terms of their complexity and richness. Barrel samples of the 1992 Pinot Noir-La Bauge au-Dessus from the Bien Nacido Vineyard reveal a sweet, raspberry, smoky bouquet, opulent, full-throttle, rich flavor, and a meaty, fleshy, exceptionally rich, chewy finish. It will not be released for another year. At present, consumers will have to be content with the spectacular 1991 and 1990 Pinot Noir-La Bauge au-Dessus-Bien Nacido.