La Chablisienne Les Venerables Vieilles Vignes, Chablis, France

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The 2012 Chablis Les Venerables Vieilles Vignes (from 35-year-old vines, which is more middle-aged vines in my book!) spent 14 months on the fine lees on stainless steel and wooden barrels. It has a fine, flinty bouquet that is well-defined and focused, unwinding nicely in the glass. The palate is clean and fresh with well-judged acidity, fresh green apple and kiwi fruit notes and that mineralite surfacing nicely toward the finish. This punches above its weight. Drink now-2016. La Chablisienne is one of Chablis’ most high-profile cooperatives and a great success story. Founded back in 1923 and still going strong, it is said that they oversee approximately one-quarter of the region’s production, around 300 individual growers. Therefore, just like Georges Duboeuf in Beaujolais or Louis Jadot in the Cote d’Or, it is important that they maintain standards irrespective of high volumes, since their size ensures that they have an ambassadorial role for Chablis, for ordinary punters perhaps seeking to broaden their horizons. In this respect, the wines should not be looked down upon given the showing here. While none of them reached the heady heights of Chablis’ most revered artisans, there was certainly a consistency across the range that when coupled with the volume produced, deserves to be applauded. Importers: Ruby Wines (MA), Opici Wines (NY), Grape Expectations (CA), Brescome Barton (CT)