Georg Breuer Rauenthal Estate Riesling Qba Trocken, Rheingau, Germany

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The 2006 Rauenthal Estate Riesling displays intriguing musky, truffly, faintly smoky aromas; exhibits pungency of smoke and citrus zest, sweet floral inner-mouth perfume, and an oily-rich texture; and finishes a bit austerely with salinity, chalkiness, persistent smokiness, and a sensation of meat, all characteristics reminiscent of Chablis. (By contrast, the Rudesheim Estate Riesling was somewhat severe in its phenolics and could certainly not be credited with charm.) Heinrich Breuer and Hermann Schmoranz began their Riesling harvest October 6, and finished in record time. Selective picking and watchful decantation and selection of the musts, rather than the use of treatments, was the approach taken here to the problematic health and botrytis of the vintage. The results included a 40% reduction in volume over their recent average.Imported by Classical Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 547-0255