The 1996 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has always been a troubling wine for this writer. Here, I noticed a slight mustiness in colour compared to other vintages. It has a modest bouquet with light floral, wilted violet petal scents and mint, opening nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied and quite structured, yet there is something "missing" at the centre. A heart perhaps? This feels uncharacteristically austere and bony on the finish. Guillaume d'Angerville opined that it was always hard to drink in its youth but is beginning to open. Personally, I would opt for the 1995 and not run the risk.
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