In a surprising apparent role reversal that Veronique Boss-Drouhin cautions may be temporary, her 2007 Chablis Les Clos occupies the palate more with luscious, ripe white peach and lime, and less with mineral matter than the corresponding Vaudesir. Hints of strawberry and vanilla and a fine saline savor add allure, and it finishes with palpable density and persistence of fruit skin phenolics, but not much overt chalkiness for a young wine from its site. It should be well worth re-visiting over at minimum a 7- to 9-year period, and may well need time to demonstrate its true distinction.
Drouhin 2007 Chablis offerings aptly illustrate the house style: understated yet immediately engaging and full of nuance, polished but not in the least superficial.
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
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