Impressively layering fresh cherry, kirsch distillate, and piquancy of cherry pits, the Jayer-Gilles 2007 Cotes de Nuits-Villages displays a brightness and focus that could almost have come from 2008. It also incorporates considerable, though finely-grained tannin. Floral effusions offer inner-mouth allure, and this finishes with impressive persistence. I suspect it will be worth following for the better part of a decade. Gilles Jayer did not commence harvesting is 2008 Pinots until October 1, with his Echezeaux. (In 2007, he began August 31.) With the exception of a few top parcels, he notes, triage had to be more severe in 2007 (just as in 2006) than it was in 2008, when he estimates that only 3-5% of what arrived in the press house was rejected. These 2008s evolved very slowly, in many instances retaining gaseous memoirs of their malo-lactic fermentations through the winter of 2009-2010, and not only were none of them bottled until after I last tasted them, but the Cotes de Nuits-Villages was simply not ready to be assessed.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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