A blend of true Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, and what he terms the Pinot Beurot variant of Pinot Gris, Barmes’ 2007 Pinot d’Alsace Rosenberg was aged in tank and demi-muids, and is a bit marked by lanolin, vanilla, and resin from the latter vessels. Subtly creamy and mingling apple, lightly toasted hazelnut, lemon, and herbs, and with saline, chalky undertones, it has a decidedly Burgundian character. My concern here is that the aromas are slightly muted and the finish slightly dried by the wood. I have not had chance to taste this after bottling, so judgment must to some extent be deferred, and it is certainly worth re-visiting, especially given its modest price. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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