The Humbrechts believe 1997 is the greatest Gewurztraminer vintage since 1990, with the possible exception of 1994. Readers who crave ostentatious Gewurztraminers will flip for Zind-Humbrecht's flamboyant 1997s.The 1997 Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim, harvested at Vendange Tardive levels of maturity, offers explosive, almost obnoxious aromas of lychee nuts and jasmine bathed in rose water. This massively expressive, gaudy, full-bodied wine bursts on the palate with untold layers of spicy pineapples, flowers, and candied pink grapefruits. Drink it with assertively spiced Asian dishes or pungent cheeses over the next 7 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.