The 2017 Chablis La Sereine is very good, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange rind, crisp Anjou pear, honeysuckle and iodine. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with good concentration, racy acids and a stony finish. This cuvée is the result of a struck selection of juice at the press, and it tends to include more old-vine fruit. In the cellar, it sees a touch more used wood than the wines that preceded it.