The 2009 BRANCO “MARQUES DE BORBA” is a blend of Arinto, Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro. Clean and refreshing, surprisingly lively in its youth, with good body and a focused demeanor, this has a lingering finish for its status and is a nice value for its price point. I very much liked this—but note that if you are on a budget and encountering young, Ramos’ own ’09 Loios, reviewed this issue, is a good and dirt cheap alternative this year. This is a better wine in my view, but the Loios may be an even better value, although it may fade sooner. Drink now-2012. This lineup is often a good source for values in Portugal. This year’s releases are no different, and perhaps better than most in that regard. There are a lot of beautifully constructed wines here that are charming and inexpensive (ignoring the Reserva “MARQUES DE BORBA,” which has spiked up dramatically in recent years to levels many might find unrealistic). The Vila Santa Reserva Tinto and the Marques de Borba regular Tinto are certainly best buys, but there are good cases to make for the monovarietals and the Loios wines as well.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado).
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