Moving 80 meters up the slope from Lignier's parcel at La Riotte, the 2011 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots is clearly darker in color. The bouquet has more volume with lovely, animated scents of black cherries and cassis interlaced with violet that gains richness with aeration. The palate exhibits higher acidity than the La Riotte, the tannins supple and forming a fine backbone for the mineral-rich dark plum and black currant fruit. The finish offers good structure that suggests it should age beautifully over the next decade. Drink 2015-2025.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is another Morey-St-Denis estate that I have followed and visited for a number of years, a period that has been turbulent to say the least. I have always appreciated Hubert's classic style of wine and his tenets have been instilled in his son, Laurent. It was he who led me through the tasting of impressive 2011s at their cellar under a magnificent cedar overlooking the Route Nationale, though Hubert popped in to say, "Bonjour." Laurent explained that the vineyards are now in their third year of organic viticulture although he has no intention of seeking certification. This was a strong set of pure, sensual, quite intellectual wines that I feel deserve more recognition, exhibiting prudent use of oak, ample freshness and wonderful expression of their terroirs not dissimilar to Lalou Bize-Leroy. Quantities are often very small as they home in on individual lieux-dits, though prices remain reasonable.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990
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