The Prieur 2006 Volnay Champans is strongly dark cherry-scented and –flavored, with medicinal overtones of herbal concentrate, iodine, and bitter fruit pit, as well as savory suggestions of soy, beef bouillon, and of dried fungus typical for Champans. This boasts real depth and concentration, with striking viscosity yet persistently fresh fruit juiciness and lift that carry into a long, savory finish. The corresponding Santenots is sweeter in fruit, but this is far more intriguing, and should prove multitalented at table over at least the better part of a decade. Too bad there are only around 100 cases. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700