From a bubbly specialist comes this fancy wine, a blend of 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Has very forward fruity aromas that are a combo of both varietals. It’s a bit rough, as though the bubbles aren’t fine enough, but that’s comparing it to the best French vintage Champagne, which costs a whole lot more. ——S.H.(12/1/2000)—— 88