Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve Vielles Vines

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The 2007 Xinomavro Reserve "Vielles Vines" is the first bottling of a separately bottled "old vines Reserve" Xinomavro (from 86-year-old vines). Alpha's regular Xinomavro (now replaced by the Hedgehog) previously featured a blend of very old vines, 60% of 80+ years, and 40% younger vines (25 years). This 2007 Reserve was aged in French oak for 18 months. It is wonderful. Mouth coating and deep, with concentration levels not seen on any of Alpha's other wines, this is simply gripping and intense. Yet, it is hardly one dimensional. It is also earthy and complex, and as it airs out it becomes a multi-dimensional wine. At this point in its youth, it is still not really ready, nowhere near as expressive as it may yet become, although with aeration it was approachable. So, if you can still find this, more likely in Europe, prepare to cellar it for awhile. Some may understandably prefer a more traditional, somewhat more rustic Xinomavro style, but there is surely a place for this beautiful and impeccably balanced bottling. Drink 2014-2030. Note that the 2007 reds are released and currently in the marketplace. The 2008s were all bottled at the time reviewed, but are largely still being held back for bottle aging. They will be released sometime in mid to late 2011. Alpha is one of those hot estates that should draw consumer attention. Here's a chance to get in at the ground floor, more or less, with two fine vintages in 2007 and 2008. This winery has been considered to be a "comer" for awhile. It's fair to end that talk. They have arrived and are making terrific wines. They have their own style and the Amyndeon terroir is somewhat different than Naoussa, they say, which is the signature appellation for Xinomavro in Greece. Taking that all together, Alpha's wines are more refined and accessible than some of the more rustic versions of Xinomavro. Compare them to Xinomavro from Foundi in Naoussa, also reviewed this issue, and it seems not even to be the same grape. I've often compared Xinomavro to Nebbiolo, but with Alpha, Pinot Noir comparisons seem more apt. There is still attention to structure here and few compromises. The quality steadily improves and considering the small production levels on many of the wines, the output seems to be quite reasonably priced, too. Greek reds are justly acquiring more cachet and this Northern Greek estate is one very fine example of where the region is going.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211