The Marc Morey 2007 Batard-Montrachet is dominated by ripe peach, musky narcissus, lily, and honey, though with chalky, zesty, and spicy inflections. Hints of apple pit and peach kernel offer further counterpoint to sheer richness of forward fruit. For all of this wine’s density and creaminess, there is a sense of lift here, as there was with the Pucelles. But this doesn’t quite achieve the dynamic or the complexity of that premier cru bottling. I would expect this to perform well for at least 5-7 years, although like most of the wines in its collection, it seems ideal for enjoying on the young side.
Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance.
Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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