Jacques Prieur Beaune Clos de la Feguine

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The 2006 Beaune Clos De La Figuine – from a Prieur monopole whose production has fallen drastically due to replanting – smells of ripe cherry and peaches with their pits; comes onto the palate with refined though evident tannins; and finishes with an invigorating tart edge of fruit skin and bitterness of fruit pit. There is no superficial sweetness about this, and its pithy, piquant flavors convey a sense of austerity dramatically contrasting with the silken, savory Clos de Mazeray. That said, it possesses admirable stuffing and purity of fruit; should be most interesting to revisit in 2010; and I suspect will perform well for 2-3 years thereafter. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700