Guigal, who has replaced Georges Vernay as Mr. Condrieu (he now produces 40% of the appellation's production), has turned out two of the finest 1996 Condrieus. I do not particularly care for the 1996 vintage in Condrieu based on the number of mediocre and disappointing wines I tasted, but Guigal picked much later than most others, did a full malolactic fermentation to reduce the wines' high acidity, and his cold maceration peliculaire fermentation seems to have extracted more fruit than his peers.
The single-vineyard 1996 Condrieu La Doriane is unquestionably the wine of the vintage for Condrieu. It is so far superior to anything else I tasted from this appellation, it only adds to my admiration for Guigal's talent. He crop thinned until he had eliminated 35% of the grapes, did a full malolactic fermentation, and aged this wine in both tank and small casks, of which 55% were new. The wine boasts a stunning floral and tropical fruit-scented nose with underlying honey and apricot liqueur-like aromas. Rich and medium to full-bodied, it possesses gorgeous freshness, vibrancy, and enough acidity for definition. This expressive, expansive, full-bodied, dry, fruit-filled Condrieu is a thrill to drink. Consume it over the next 3-5 years.
Guigal is one of the cellars where the wines always taste better after they are bottled than they do from cask, although as the scores in this segment indicate, some profound wines can be found in the 1994, 1995, and 1996 vintages Chez Guigal. Guigal's impression of the 1996 vintage is that it was significantly more successful in the north than the south, but one of the characteristics in both northern and southern Rhone wines is high acidity - in both white and red wine cuvees.
Importer: Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 731-6644
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