Aromatically, the Volnay Clos Des Chenes offers cloves, violets and cherries. On the palate this medium-to-full-bodied wine is powerful, elegant, oily-textured with concentrated layers of roses and spicy red and black fruits. Long and balanced, it should evolve beautifully with cellaring. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.