From a monopole running alongside the Clos des Ducs; belonging to the Carre family; and until 2006 biodynamically farmed and vinified by the Domaine Carre-Corbin, Leroux’s 2008 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs offers an utterly distinctive aura of ripe peach, red currant, and rhubarb; a combination of ripeness and textural smoothness with vivacity; complexities of blond tobacco, chalk, and forest floor; and a long, lilting finish that both soothes and lip-smackingly invigorates. Leroux calls this aromatic, delicate, polished Pinot “the alter ego of the Clos des Epeneaux” while seeking to assure me that he applies the same vinificatory regimen to each of them. (Ironically, one-third of the Clos de la Cave des Ducs is in young vines propagated from the Clos des Epeneaux selection.) There will normally be 7-8 barrels of this, but in 2008 there are only 5. I can’t imagine what to expect from it as it matures, but certainly one can be confident in tracking this for at least the next half dozen years. Just don’t miss out on enjoying some in its youth, either.
Benjamin Leroux’s negociant program is intended by him in part to serve over time for highlighting and working with potential acquisitions for his Domaine Comte Armand (for my notes on which – and Leroux’s comments on recent vintages – see under that name). While finding organic or biodynamic growers with fruit to sell is difficult, Leroux admits, he considers the minimum use of herbicides or pesticides a minimum condition for selection. His program is about to be greatly expanded – at least, in terms of the number of appellations vinified in red and white (a couple of these very exciting and unexpected). Quantities per wine will continue to be tiny.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
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