The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Brookmans Vineyard was closed and tannic, with toasty notes in the aromas. It was difficult to penetrate and evaluate. There is size and force to the wine, but it is monolithic. It is aged in 100% new French oak casks, which is apparent from its pain grille-scented nose. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2015. This immense, super-concentrated, muscular wine appears to mirror the personality and stature of proprietor/winemaker Roman Bratasiuk. Clarendon Hills produces some of my favorite Australian wines, and readers looking for flavor, personality, and pleasure, should seek out this limited production gem. Imported by The Australian Premium Wine Collection, John Larchet, USA Wine West, LLC, San Rafael, CA; phone: (800)-485-5753 and Chicago Brands, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 466-9300.
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