Comprising fruit from a cru-classe trio of red clay Jory sites – Bella Vide, Maresh, and a single barrel of precious Abby Ridge whose inclusion Somers deemed almost miraculously efficacious (else he would not have sacrificed it) – J. Christopher’s 350 cases worth of 2010 Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Cuvee displays the smoke-tinged ripe cassis and elderberry familiar from the corresponding generic bottling, here with a faintly caramelized sense of richness; mingling of licorice and bittersweet, medicinal herbal concentrates; and an evident abundance of fine tannins that should help see it through the next half dozen or more years.
Following international internships and five years with John Paul at Cameron, reflective and experimental-minded Jay Somers founded J. Christopher wines in 1996 with conviction in the principles of biodynamic farming and what he calls “Old World” stylistic sensibility. Meeting a deep-pocketed, multi-talented soul mate and commercial partner in Ernst Loosen of the eponymous Mosel estate, Somers now finds himself in the enviable position of presiding over a newly-constructed and superbly-equipped winery surrounded by a newly-planted former pasture dubbed Appassionata Vineyard (mixed volcanic and sedimentary) whose aspect and proximity to some of Newberg’s best sites (including David Adelsheim’s founding vineyard, not to mention the cluster a mile west on Calkins Lane) can’t help but fire even a jaded wine lover’s imagination; and the wines – given their vibrant style and on the whole extremely reasonable prices – can’t help but stimulate an appetite of more than one sort. Among many unique aspects of J. Christopher is a passion and ambition for Sauvignon Blanc, which Somers and Loosen have backed-up by planting three acres of their home vineyard’s 20 acres with that cepage, the rest being Pinot Noir including – unsurprisingly, given Loosen’s international experience and Somers’ at Cameron – highly, dare I say “colorfully,” diverse vine material including heirloom selections of both Californian and Oregonian origin. Pinot is destemmed – though future deviations from that norm are envisioned – and ferments spontaneously “which at our ambient temperatures,” notes Somers, “can take anywhere from 5-10 days.” Extraction is solely via punch-downs and the wine is pressed within a couple of days of reaching dryness; then minimally settled before going to barrel, 25% new. In the newly-dug and exceedingly cold caves, malo is taking place on a Burgundian schedule; in fact, had only recently started when I visited in early June. On occasion (such as in 2009, but not 2010) acid will be added. Alcohol is naturally around 13% on the 2010s and “even in 2009,” Somers claims that without adjusting most lots “we managed to keep everything under 14%, which was astonishing.” I tasted all of the 2010 Pinots here (save for the generic) as definitive blends shortly ahead of bottling.
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