1996 is particularly successful for Batard-Montrachet. Leflaive's explodes from the glass with highly-expressive mineral, hazelnut and toasty oak aromas. On the palate, this full-bodied, silky and awesomely rich wine has highly-delineated yet fat and layered waves of white fruits, stones and spices. Brawny yet feminine, powerful yet elegant, this gem is a tour de force! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
Anne-Claude Leflaive, this famed estate's director, and Pierre Morey, its winemaker, are justifiably excited about their 1996s. Some of their lots had 14% natural alcohol potential, yet huge acidity levels. Morey said that the malic and tartaric acid levels were even at harvest, an unprecedented occurrence in a ripe vintage in Burgundy. Like his colleagues at other domaines, he attributes the high levels of malic acid to the cool temperatures that were present in late summer and early fall. Madame Leflaive added that the estate's policy of hoeing the vineyards forces the vine's roots deep into the soil also increases acidity levels.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.
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