Clair's 2006 Bonnes Mares 2006 represents the first vintage for his family's newly-recovered share at the northern edge of this great site, consisting of one parcel planted shortly after the Second World War, and another planted in the 1980s. (This year, there are six barrels worth.) Bear in mind that the vines have not been worked meticulously the way he will work them, cautions Clair, but nonetheless this is impressive. Bright fresh red raspberry backed by the fruit's distilled essence, along with pungent, medicinal herbal concentrate inform a bright aromatic and palate display. While it lacks the richness or interplay of this year's Clair Clos de Beze or Clos St.-Jacques, it boasts refined tannins and impressive persistence. I would plan to wait several years before revisiting it, and count on enjoying within 10-12 years.
Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun have a battery of 1,500 liter upright fermentation casks as well as larger ovals, which permit more wines to depart small barrels sooner but not have to go into tanks. And in 2006 (or for that matter 2007), they concurred that preservation of fruit and preventing the wood from drying it out were paramount considerations. (In fact, the Marsannay cuvees were still not yet bottled when I last tasted them in the Spring of 2008.) Picking here, by the way, lasted from September 23 through October 4, and the results certainly speak emphatically for themselves.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
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