The 2012 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge benefitted from the clement late weather and was picked between the 5 and 10 October. It sports a healthy deep ruby color. The nose is fragrant and nicely poised with cranberry and blackcurrant aromas that seem quite intense at this stage. The palate is a little tough on the entry. This is underpinned by bold and quite firm tannins, the fruit pushed down into second place after the structure on the finish, but that will surface with time. It is a question of whether consumers will afford this 18-24 months bottle age – hopefully they will.
It is always a pleasure to see Michel Gros, with his bushy moustache and face that always reminds me of Bruce Forsythe had the TV star become a winemaker in Vosne-Romanee. “Spring was difficult because of mildew and oidium,” Michel explained as we tasted in his office. “We had to do 13 treatments during the year, which is the most we have ever done. It was difficult finding time to get into the vineyard and apply treatments. In the end the crop was 25% down, about 30hl/ha due to the poor flowering and coulure.” The harvest started on 21 September and finished on 3 October in the Hautes Cotes. As usual, Michel practices a warm fermentation that reached 35 degrees during maceration. “C’etait un vinification facile,” he tells me. I always enjoy Michel’s wine and I agree with the point made in Remington Norman/Charles Taylor MW “The Great Domaines of Burgundy” that stylistically they sit comfortably between the pure, elegant style off Anne Gros and the richer, burlier style of Bernard Gros. His 2012s really hit their stride when we get to Vosne-Romanee, including his monopole Clos des Reas and like Anne, Michel has overseen an exquisite Clos de Vougeot this year. Overall, I found much more to savor in these nascent wines than the 2011s and given their reasonable price tags, come recommended.
Importer: Martin Scott Wines; www.martinscottwines.com and also through Thorman Hunt (UK).
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