The 1980 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is drinking beautifully today, unfurling in the glass with notes of sweet wild berries, peonies, black truffle and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with supple, powdery tannins, lively acids and a seamless, elegant profile, it's at the peak of its powers. This bottle had been recorked at the domaine, and it wouldn't surprise me if bottles on their original corks would show even more textural plenitude and aroma.
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