Barmes’ 2004 Pinot Auxerrois – from vineyards in Colmar – offers Gewurztraminer-like spice in the nose, a melon- and orange-fruited, wood smoke- and lime zest-accented palate, underlying suggestions of nut oils, and a juicy, persistent finish. (Barmes’ wine labeled “Pinot d’Alsace” represents a creamier – and in this vintage slightly sweet – variation on Auxerrois; and a blend of true Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, and Pinot Beurot from the Rosenberg in Wettolsheim had picked up wood from its demi muids that obscured its fruit.) The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.