The big, spicy, tannic, backward 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Schiena d'Asino exhibits a dark garnet/ruby color, closed aromatics (scents of earth, pepper, and underbrush can be found), plenty of muscle and power, but not much fruit. It is a cleanly made wine that cuts a full impression on the palate, but it finishes with excruciating tannin. If the tannin becomes more integrated, this wine will merit a score in the upper eighties, but it will not reach full maturity before the turn of the century. Look for it to last through 2010+. Importer: Viva Vino Imports, Eddystone, PA; tel. (610) 872-1500
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